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16 Best Gemstone Setting Techniques

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For a jewelry wholesaler, it takes a lot of effort to go from designing the jewelry, sourcing the materials, to the finished product. One of these processes is the setting process, which is a very delicate skill and requires a lot of experience to accomplish. Different processes have different advantages and disadvantages. In the process of making jewelry, Venusacc’s craftsmen closely combine gemstones and metal materials to form exquisite jewelry, which brings people wonderful visual feasts and enjoyment.

What kind of jewelry is inlaid?

Jewelry inlays are generally used in rings, earrings, bracelets, brooches, pendants, etc. Craftsmen used specialized tools and metal knives to carve and polish the jewelry. This is a process that requires a lot of patience and finesse.

16 Best Gemstone Setting Techniques-VENUSACC

How many kinds of inlay processes?

1. Claw setting (the most classic setting technique)

   The setting method of fixing the gemstone on the bracket with metal, using each claw to hold the gemstone set in place. It is a very classic setting process.

  • Category: Claw setting can be divided into 2-8 claws, of which four claws and six claws are the most commonly used in gemstones.
  • Advantages: Minimal shading of the gemstone, allows more light to reach the gemstone, more sparkling, does not jump the hand shape, easy to clean the jewelry.
  • Claw Shape: There can be a variety of claw shapes to choose from, commonly round, square and heart-shaped. Different shapes of claws will affect the appearance of the jewelry and the stability of the stones.
  • The number of claws: Usually, the number of claws is related to the shape of the gemstone. Round gemstones are usually secured with 4 to 6 claws, while oval or other shapes may require more claws for stability.
  • Claw Height: The height of the claws is also a factor to consider. Higher claws may increase the visibility of the gemstone, but may also increase the risk of damage. Lower claws may reduce the visibility of the gemstone.
  • Claw material: commonly used claw materials include yellow gold, white gold and platinum. Different materials have different characteristics and appearances, so you can choose the right material according to your personal preference and budget.

Maintenance: Claw-set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the stability of the claws and the safety of the gemstones. It is recommended to check the claws regularly for looseness or wear and tear and avoid wearing them while performing strenuous activities.

2. Bale setting (the most stable)

The wrapped inlay is a kind of inlay that completely wraps the gemstone in the metal. Unlike claw inlay, the wrapped inlay process makes the gemstone firmly fixed in the jewelry by encircling the edge of the metal.

  • Setting Methods: The cladding process can be done in different ways, such as a full wrap, half wrap, and bar setting. A full-bezel setting means that the gemstone is completely encased in metal, while a half-bezel setting is where a portion of the gemstone is exposed. A setting bar is a band of metal around the gemstone for added retention and aesthetic appeal.
  • METAL CHOICE: Common metals used in the cladding process include yellow gold, white gold and platinum. Factors such as durability, aesthetics and cost need to be considered when choosing a metal.
  • Gemstone Protection: The cladding process provides better protection for gemstones, and the fact that the gemstones are encased in metal reduces the risk of bumps and scratches, thus prolonging the life of the gemstones.

Maintenance: Clad jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the solidity of the metal and the safety of the gemstones. It is advisable to check the metal regularly for looseness or wear and avoid wearing it during strenuous activities.

3、Clip Setting

A clip set is a type of setting in which a gemstone is held between two metal cleats, which keep the stone stable by pressure and friction.

  • Clip material: Clips are usually made of metal, and everyday materials include yellow gold, white gold and platinum. When choosing a material, it is important to consider its durability and aesthetics.
  • Clip setting: Clip settings can be applied to stones of different shapes and sizes, from small diamonds to large colored stones. Clip settings often create jewelry such as pendants, earrings and bracelets.
  • Gemstone Protection: Clip-on jewelry offers better gemstone protection. The clamping force of the clip-on plate keeps the gemstone firmly in place on the jewelry, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches to the gemstone.

Maintenance: Clip-on jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the stability of the clamp and the safety of the stones. It is advisable to check the cleats regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing them during strenuous activities.

16 Best Gemstone Setting Techniques-VENUSACC

4、Orbit Setting

A track set is a type of setting in which multiple stones are embedded in parallel metal tracks. The tracks are usually made of metal, and the stones are surrounded by parallel tracks so that they are securely fastened to the jewelry.

  • Track Shape: Tracks can have different shapes, such as round, square, oval, etc… The shape of the track can be chosen according to the design needs and the shape of the gemstone.
  • Number of Stones: The track setting process can accommodate multiple stones, the number of which can be adjusted according to the design needs and the size of the track. Common track setting designs include single row track, double row track and multi-row track.
  • Gemstone Setting: Gemstones can be set in the track in different ways, the common ones are push-flat setting and claw setting. Push-flat setups place the gemstone flat in the track, while claw-set setups secure the gemstone to the track with metal claws.
  • Gemstone Protection: The rail setting process provides better gemstone protection, with the gemstone being surrounded by metal rails, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

Maintenance: Rail-set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the stability of the rails and the safety of the stones. It is advisable to check the rails regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing them during strenuous activities.

5、Post Setting

Post setting is a type of setting in which the gemstone is fixed to a metal post, which is inserted into the hole or groove at the bottom of the gemstone to make it securely fixed to the jewelry.

  • Post Material: Posts are usually made of metal, and everyday materials include yellow gold, white gold and platinum. When choosing a material you need to consider its durability and aesthetics.
  • Gemstone Holes: The post-setting process requires holes or grooves in the bottom of the gemstone to allow the metal post to be inserted and hold the gemstone in place. This usually requires special work on the bottom of the stone.
  • Post-Set Decoration: The post-setting process can be applied to gemstones of different shapes and sizes, from small diamonds to large gemstones. Post settings are often used to create jewelry such as rings, earrings and necklaces.
  • STONE PROTECTION: Post set jewelry offers better stone protection, the insertion and anchoring of the posts keeps the stones securely in the jewelry, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

Maintenance: Post-set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the stability of the metal posts and the safety of the gemstones. It is advisable to check the metal posts regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing them during strenuous activities.

6、Plug Setting

Insert Setting is a type of setting in which a gemstone is inserted into a metal channel, and the gemstone is fixed to the jewelry by means of a metal channel that suits its shape and size.

  • Metal channel material: Metal channel is usually made of metal, standard materials are yellow gold, white gold, platinum and so on. When choosing a material, you need to consider its durability and aesthetics.
  • Gemstone Shape: The insert setting process is suitable for different shapes of gemstones, such as round, oval, heart, square and so on. The shape and size of the metal groove should match the gemstone to ensure stable fixation of the gemstone.
  • The design of grooves: The design of metal grooves can be simple straight lines or complex decorative patterns. The design of the grooves can add to the beauty and uniqueness of the jewelry.
  • Gemstone protection: The insert setting process can provide better gemstone protection, The metal grooves are wrapped around the gemstones to hold them securely in the jewelry, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

Maintenance: Inset jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the stability of the metal channel and the safety of the stones. It is advisable to check the metal channel regularly for looseness or wear and avoid wearing it during strenuous activities.

16 Best Gemstone Setting Techniques-VENUSACC

7. Bezel-less settings

A bezel-less setting is a type of setting in which the stone is embedded directly into the metal, with no additional bezel or bezel opening between the stone and the metal, making the stone appear to be almost flush with the surface of the metal.

  • Embedding: A bezel-less setting embeds the gemstone into the metal, usually by cutting the metal to create a suitable space to accommodate the base of the gemstone, allowing the gemstone to sit flush with the surface of the metal.
  • Gemstone Selection: The infinity-setting process can be applied to gemstones of all shapes and sizes, such as round, oval, square, and heart shapes. The choice of the gemstone should match the choice of metal to ensure an overall aesthetic effect.
  • Gemstone Protection: The bezel-less setting process provides better gemstone protection, with the gemstone sitting flush with the metal surface, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches. However, since there is no additional bezel or bezel setting, more care needs to be taken to protect the gemstones from bumps or drops.

Maintenance: Bezel-set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the solidity of the metal and the safety of the gemstones. It is recommended to regularly check the jewelry for any looseness or wear and avoid wearing it while performing strenuous activities.

8、Fishtail Setting

Fishtail setting is a type of setting in which the gemstone is embedded in the metal in the shape of a fishtail. This technique is done by cutting fishtail-shaped grooves into the metal and inserting the stone into the grooves to securely hold the stone in the jewelry.

  • Fishtail Shape: The grooves of a fishtail setting usually take on the shape of a fishtail, a shape that gives the jewelry a unique look and design. The fishtail shape can be adjusted according to the design needs and the shape of the gemstone.
  • Gemstone Insertion: The gemstone is inserted by inserting its bottom into the fishtail notch. The shape and size of the notch should match the gemstone to ensure a stable hold.
  • Fishtail Decoration: The fishtail setting process can be applied to gemstones of different shapes and sizes, such as round, oval and square. Fishtail settings often create jewelry such as rings, necklaces and bracelets.
  • Gemstone Protection: The fishtail setting process provides better gemstone protection. The fishtail grooves hold the gemstone securely in the jewelry, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

Maintenance: Fishtail-mounted jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure that the grooves are secure and the stones are safe. It is advisable to check the grooves regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing them during strenuous activities.

9、Buried Setting / Mulled Setting

A buried (mulled) setting is a type of setting in which the stone is completely embedded in the metal, by embedding the stone in the metal so that the surface is flush with the metal and there are no projections.

  • Embedding: A buried (bored) setting usually involves cutting the bottom of the stone into a flat shape and then embedding the stone into the metal setting so that it is flush with the surface of the metal.
  • Metal setting: The metal setting is usually made of gold, white gold, platinum and other metals. It serves to hold and protect the gemstone while providing a base for the setting.
  • Gemstone Selection: The buried setting (bored setting) process is suitable for gemstones of all shapes and sizes, such as round, oval and square. The choice of gemstone should match the choice of metal to ensure an overall aesthetic effect.
  • Gemstone Protection: The Buried Set (Mulled) process provides better gemstone protection, with the surface of the gemstone being flush with the metal, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

Maintenance: Buried (mulled) jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the stability of the metal base and the safety of the gemstones. It is advisable to check the setting regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing it during strenuous activities.

10、Tiger claw setting

Tiger claw setting is a type of setting where the gemstone is fixed to the jewelry using a metal claw that resembles the shape of a tiger’s paw. The claws securely hold the stone to the jewelry by wrapping around the edge of the stone.

  • Claw Shape: The shape of the claw in the tiger claw setting process usually mimics the shape of a tiger’s paw, having a sharp and curved appearance. This shape adds visual interest to the jewelry while providing protection for the gemstone.
  • Number of Claws: The number of claws used in the tiger claw setting process is usually 4 to 6, adjusted depending on the shape and size of the gemstone. Smaller stones may only require 4 claws, while larger stones may require more claws for a secure hold.
  • Claw Material: Commonly used claw materials for the tiger claw setting process include yellow gold, white gold and platinum. When choosing a material, you need to consider factors such as its durability, aesthetics and cost.
  • Gemstone protection: The tiger claw setting process can provide better gemstone protection, the claw wrapping makes the gemstone firmly fixed in the jewelry, reducing the risk of collision and scratches.

Maintenance: Tiger claw set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure that the claws are secure and the gemstones are safe. It is advisable to check the claws regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing them while performing strenuous activities.

11、Spade Bezel Setting

A spade edge setting is a type of setting where the gemstone is embedded in a metal bezel. The metal bezel is cut and bent to form a base that fits the shape of the gemstone and secures it to the jewelry.

  • Bezel Shape: The shape of the bezel can be customized to fit the shape of the gemstone and design needs. Common bezel shapes include round, square, oval, and heart.
  • Bezel Material: Bezels are usually made of metals such as yellow gold, white gold and platinum. When choosing the material, you need to consider its durability and aesthetics.
  • Gemstone Fixing: Bezels keep gemstones in place by placing them into the setting and gently pressing them down or using other fixing methods.
  • Gemstone Protection: The spade bezel setting process provides better gemstone protection. The bezel surrounds the edge of the gemstone, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

MAINTENANCE: Rake-edge set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the bezel’s stability and the gemstone’s safety. It is advisable to check bezels regularly for looseness or wear and to avoid wearing them during strenuous activities.

12、Pavé setting

A pavé setting is a type of setting in which a gemstone is secured to a piece of jewelry using small nails or thin wires. These small nails or wires securely fasten the stone to the jewelry by passing through the bottom or side of the stone and fastening it to a metal base.

  • Nail Shape: The nails used in pavé setting are usually long, thin and delicate to ensure that the gemstone stays in place without detracting from the beauty of the stone. The shape of the pegs can be adapted to the design and the shape of the stone.
  • Number of Nails: The number of nails used in a pavé setting will vary depending on the size and shape of the stone. Often, larger stones may require more nails to securely hold them in place.
  • Nail Material: Common nail materials used in pavé settings include yellow gold, white gold and platinum. When choosing a material, it is important to consider its durability and aesthetics.
  • Gemstone Protection: Pavé settings offer better gemstone protection. The studs hold the stones securely in the jewelry, reducing the risk of bumps and scratches.

Maintenance: Pavé-set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure that the nails are secure and the stones are safe. It is advisable to regularly check for loose or worn studs and avoid wearing them during strenuous activities.

13、Wax Inlay

Wax inlay is a type of inlay that uses a wax mold to create a jewelry design. First, a jewelry designer will create a model using a wax mold and then use that model to create the metal setting.

  • Wax Mold Making: Wax molds are made by heating and injecting candle wax or a special wax material into a mold. Wax molds are made according to the shape and details of the jewelry design, allowing for an accurate representation of the jewelry’s appearance.
  • METAL INLAYS: Once the wax mold is created, the jewelry designer uses this model to create metal inlays. Typically, a metal such as yellow gold, white gold or silver is melted and poured into the wax mold. Once the metal has cooled and solidified, the wax mold is melted or removed, leaving the metal inlay.
  • HAND ADJUSTMENTS: Once the metal inlay has been created, it usually needs to be hand adjusted and touched up to ensure that it matches the design. This includes leveling and polishing the surface of the metal to give it the desired look and texture.
  • Gemstone Setting: Once the metal setting is ready, the gemstone is set into the metal. This can be accomplished through different setting methods such as claw setting, micro-setting or precision setting to ensure that the gemstone is securely fastened to the metal.

Finishing and Maintenance: After completing the setting, the jewelry is given a final polish and cleaning to bring out its best appearance. To maintain its beauty and security, jewelry requires regular maintenance, including regular cleaning and checking the solidity of the setting.

14、Fancy Setting

Fancy setting techniques are creative and unique settings used when embedding gemstones in jewelry. These processes are often characterized by intricate patterns, details and design elements to create a unique artistic effect.

  • Intricate patterns and details: Fancy setting techniques usually involve intricate patterns and details, such as flowers, leaves, vines, animal figures, etc. By setting these patterns and details, the jewelry is made more artistic and unique.
  • MULTIPLE SETTING METHODS: The fancy setting process can be used in a variety of setting methods, such as cut setting, micro-setting, precision setting and so on. These methods allow the stones to be better integrated into the design and add to the beauty and visual effect of the jewelry.
  • Creative Design: The fancy setting process encourages creativity and personalized design. Designers can show unique artistic expression through the fancy setting process according to the theme, style and personal preference.
  • Material selection: Fancy inlay can be applied to different materials, such as gold, white gold, silver and so on. Choosing the right material can add more texture and beauty to the fancy inlay process.

Maintenance: Fancy set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure the solidity of the setting and the safety of the stones. It is recommended to check the setting regularly for looseness or wear and tear, and to avoid using chemicals or wearing it during strenuous activities.

15、 Wrap-Around Setting

Wrap-around setting is a type of setting in which metal wires or bands are wrapped around a gemstone to add a decorative and visual effect to the jewelry. This technique is often used to hold a gemstone in place and add a unique look to it.

  • Material Selection: The metal wire or band used in the winding and setting process can be yellow gold, white gold, silver, and so on. Choosing the right material can be based on design needs and personal preferences, as well as harmonizing with the gemstone and other metal elements.
  • Shape of Wrap-Around Setting: Wrap-around settings can be made in different shapes and styles, such as round, twisted, spiral, and so on. The choice of shape and style usually depends on the designer’s creativity and the overall style of the jewelry.
  • Technique: The process of bezel-wrapping requires skill and handwork. Metal wires or bands need to be precisely wrapped around the gemstone and properly secured to ensure that the gemstone is secure and safe.
  • Gemstone Protection: The winding process provides a degree of gemstone protection. The wire or band encircling the gemstone reduces the risk of bumps and scratches by minimizing direct contact between the gemstone and outside objects.

Maintenance: Wrap-around jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure that the wire or band is secure and the gemstones are safe. It is advisable to check regularly for looseness or wear in the setting and to avoid wearing it during strenuous activities.

16、Snowflake setting

Snowflake setting is a type of setting in which small gemstones or diamonds are set in jewelry in the shape of a snowflake. The snowflake pattern is created by setting multiple small gemstones or diamonds next to each other to create an overall snowflake pattern.

  • Gemstone Selection: Small gemstones or diamonds are often used in the snowflake setting process, and they can vary in size and shape. Common stones used in snowflake settings are round diamonds, but other shapes can be used to add uniqueness to the design.
  • SETTINGS: Snowflake settings are made by attaching multiple small gemstones or diamonds to each other in jewelry with tiny metal claws or wires. The stones are usually densely arranged to form a snowflake-like pattern.
  • DECORATIVE EFFECT: The snowflake setting process creates a unique decorative effect that makes jewelry appear to be covered in snowflakes. This setting provides a shimmering and sparkling appearance that adds to the luster and appeal of the jewelry.

MAINTENANCE: Snowflake set jewelry requires regular maintenance to ensure that all the stones are securely fastened to the jewelry. It is recommended to check the setting regularly for loose or damaged parts and avoid wearing it while performing strenuous activities.

16 Best Gemstone Setting Techniques-VENUSACC
tweezers inserts diamond ring 3d illustration

As a jewelry wholesaler and jewelry manufacturer, it is important that you should have some knowledge and familiarity with the jewelry setting process. Understanding the various inlay processes in product selection can help you choose jewelry styles that suit the market demand and customer preferences. Different setting processes give different looks and styles to jewelry, so understanding them can help you offer a diverse selection of products. Familiarizing yourself with different setting techniques can help you with quality control.

You can check the solidity of the setting, the accuracy of the stone setting and the beauty of the setting to ensure that you are providing high quality jewelry. Understanding the various setting techniques can stimulate creativity and design inspiration, helping you to develop unique and innovative jewelry designs. You can combine different setting techniques to create innovative designs that meet market trends and consumer preferences. Understanding the jewelry setting process allows you to better communicate and collaborate with your suppliers. You can work with a jewelry setter or jewelry artisan to develop and manufacture jewelry products that meet your needs. As a jewelry wholesaler or manufacturer, you may be confronted with customer inquiries and needs. Having an understanding of the jewelry setting process allows you to better answer your customers’ questions and provide professional advice and opinions.